This post is all about electric fence installation electric fence for horses. Electric fences are an easy and effective way to keep your horses in place, even in unfenced areas! But before you can install the electric wire, you will need to determine how many strands of wire you’ll need. You should also think about where you want it installed and what kind of charger or the battery-powered energizer is best for your needs. This blog post has everything that you need to know when installing an electric fence for your horses!
Table of Content
How Does an ElectricFence Work?
An electric fence is based on the principle that horses are afraid of being shocked. They learn pretty quickly not to go near it, even when there’s food just on the other side! As they touch or lean against them, they receive a brief but surprising shock. It will startle and discourage most animals from touching again. The only exception is if your horse has wet hooves since then they can conduct electricity through their feet into their bodies which leads to more severe injury than dry ground contact would cause alone.
Which Fence Material is Suitable for the Electric Pasture Fence?
The electric fencing materials are wires, tape, and netting. The most common type of wire is steel because it can be reused many times before needing to purchase a new roll. It’s also very inexpensive compared to other options such as aluminum or polywire. Other types of fences include a chicken wire that has been electrified with direct current wiring every few inches along the bottom edge using insulators, low-impedance fence chargers, high impedance fence chargers for larger herds as well as temporary portable ones depending on your requirements.
What is Perfect Grounding?
Grounding is very important when it comes to keeping an electric fence working properly. A good grounding system helps provide a path for the electricity so that it can get back to the charger quickly before being grounded out by contacting something. When you have your fencing materials all connected together with wire, you will need at least five separate steel rods driven into the ground about six inches deep within 100 feet of each corner post or two-thirds of the length on either side if there are no corners in order to create a proper pathway for current flow through this earth electrode grid which forms your grounding system. You don’t want anything touching these bars except maybe tree leaves and other vegetation since they conduct electricity along their entire lengths underground allowing voltage drop over the distance between these electrodes and the animal or other target.
What are Pasture Fence Insulators?
The most convenient way of installing these electrodes in most cases would be by driving steel fence posts six inches apart along the line where your electric fencing will run with insulators on top of each post which could then support two or four bare wires that can carry current above this same path underground between them as well allowing voltage drop over a distance beyond its own length, however, there are other possibilities such as burying copper wire at least five feet deep within 100 hundred feet of each corner post or two-thirds of the length on either side if there are no corners, or even running bare wire above-ground if this is the only way to avoid obstructions, but still leaving room for vegetation between posts.
What Kind of Poles is Suitable for an Electric Fence?
Kinds of poles:
- Wooden posts, such as treated pine or cedar—to install will need post hole digger
- Metal T-posts—these are heavy and sturdy steel posts that can be driven into the ground with a manual post pounder. They’re less likely to fall over than wooden ones during strong winds. These metal posts also allow for more wires above and below them if needed because they have an open center that allows wiring through them at any height. However, you must use insulated staples to attach your wire directly onto these metal T-posts to prevent arcing (or electrical shorting).
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Lay Out Your Fence
Before you do anything, lay out your fence. It’s best to keep horses confined in a smaller area with temporary fencing so they can get used to it before installing the electric fence. This way, if there are any problems with the permanent fence or gate that will be necessary for moving them into larger pastures, you won’t have as much trouble.
Insert Posts
The first thing you want to do is put your fence posts in the ground. You can either use wooden or metal fence posts, but make sure that they are driven at least six inches into the ground (or deeper if possible).
Run the Wire
You’ll need to install one line of wire every four feet around your entire perimeter. If there’s a lot of vegetation where you live it may help for additional support and grounding to run two lines closer together—three inches apart instead of four. Make sure any gates will be big enough for both horses and humans so no one gets caught with their horns!
Once all the wires have been strung up, attach them securely by twisting through them fencing staples from five-eighths inch hardware cloth which can be found at any hardware store.
Hook Up the Charger
You’ll need an energizer that is capable of giving your horses the shock they deserve! The best scenario for electric fencing is to have a minimum of nine volts. This will be enough to get their attention but not leave them with any lasting effects.
Insert Ground Rods
Make sure to put one ground rod in each corner of your fence and another one every 25 feet. These will attach the hot wire that is charged by the energizer with a grounding system so no short circuits happen when it rains or there is too much moisture on the grass, etc.
Test the Voltage
Test the voltage on your fence to ensure that it’s high enough! Just touch one wire with the other and you’ll know if they’re working. If it is slightly painful, then you’re all set for giving those horses a good shock when they get out of line!